Luksus at Torst *
615 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222
Mon - CLOSED, Tues - Sun 6:30 - 10:00 PM
Enter through Tørst, wander to the back, and find Luksus—it’s like unearthing a little boudoir behind a beer bar. The small, highly Instagrammable room has a Scandinavia-via-Brooklyn look, with a choice marble dining counter for chef viewing and smattering of tables. Sure, the crowd is heavily tattooed and tight-shirted, but this is no place for poseurs. Luksus has an artsy edge that cements Greenpoint’s status as the hotbed of NY cool. Cue the Girls location scouts. The young staff may be hipsters, but everyone is passionate, friendly, and can recite beer history like it’s their catechism. Absolutely go for the pairing. The cuisine is firmly rooted in Scandinavian techniques and ingredients, with inspiration from afar. An elegant, hybrid dish of mackerel is served sweet, banishing all traces of fishiness with slices of watermelon radish and bacon dashi. Lush and slow-poached in butter, skate is a supple contrast to crisp sunchoke chips and swipe of kohlrabi. A pub-like dish of beef tongue gets twist and flair from firm garbanzo beans and a green sauce, vivid with watercress. Desserts push the envelope with combinations that can be decadent, arresting, and not necessarily for everyone.
At Luksus, chef Daniel Burns is pairing high end eats with a beer tasting menu. Genius. An original idea, and one that plays out better than expected. We were blown away by the sheer creativity and deliciousness of everything we ate, as the Nordic inspired cuisine certainly gets cute, but doesn’t get lost in translation. It’s an $85, five course tasting menu that, compared to the other gazillion course, f*ck you money kinds of tasting meals that are all the rage these day, feels reasonable. Also, reservations are easily attainable, a perk of being out in Greenpoint. The beer tasting is $45 additional, and for those who aren’t super beer nerds, we’d suggest ordering one for the table to share. We enjoyed tasting each, and then ordering a la cart beers from the menu. As you can tell, Luksus is all about the beer as they don’t serve liquor or wine. Their goal is to prove that beer can pair with food just as well as wine can. Another thing we loved about Luksus is the juxtaposition of it all. You’re dining in a beautiful, hidden back lair of refined culinary action, and there are loud, pulsing beats blaring though the sound system. LCD, Matthew Dear, Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs (yes, that’s an artist). Clearly, this restaurant isn’t for everyone. However, we loved that aspect of it. Don’t come here rocking a blazer expecting a prim and proper fine dining experience. Untuck and lose the pretension.